Mauna Kea Onizuka Visitor Center

Located at the 9200′ point on the slopes of 13,803′ Mauna Kea, the Onizuka Visitor Information Station makes for a great spot to acclimate to the altitude.  Altitude sickness is a real possibility for those who continue on to the summit and it is suggested that anyone planning on doing so, spend at least a half hour at the visitor center.

Caution: It is recommended that anyone who has gone scuba diving in the previous 24-hrs do not visit the Onizuka Visitor Center or go to the summit, as the bends is a real, potential hazard.  For a list of additional health hazards and precautions to take, visit www.ifa.hawaii.edu/info/vis/visiting-mauna-kea/health-and-safety-advisories.html.

On our recent visit to the Big Island, this was one of the few things on our “to-do list” that we haven’t done before.  The much maligned, but much improved Saddle-Road that runs between Hilo and Waimea (Kamuela) makes the drive from Hilo a pleasant one, even though your vehicle may do a lot of down-shifting as you go from near sea-level to over 9000′ in just over an hour.  [The drive takes about twice as long if you’re driving from the Kailua-Kona area.]  Once placed on the “do not go” list of car rental companies, it is no longer an obstacle.

The view alone would make taking this drive along the Saddle Road worthwhile, as you get a unique perspective of Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea from the valley (the “Saddle”) that is formed between them.  I would suggest leaving early enough to allow for at least a two-hour drive, if you’re leaving out of the Kailua-Kona area, to get to the Onizuka Visitor Center.  If you plan to go to the summit, allow a half hour acclimation period there, then another 15-20 minutes for the drive to the summit.

Then, on your way back down, stopping for the star-gazing program.  You’ll easily spend half an hour to a full hour gazing through the various telescopes that they have set up on the patio.

View of Mauna Kea from the Saddle Road

Looking back at the Onizuka Visitor Center

We got a late start and a longer stop at the Akatsuka Orchid Gardens than anticipated, so we did not get to do the summit on this visit…gives us something to look forward to on a future visit.  We got to the visitor center with 15 minutes till sunset and we did manage to climb a small hill nearby, which many do to get a beautiful view of the sun going down.  [Note: It gets dark and cold fairly quickly once the sun goes down, so a flashlight would be a good idea.]

Sunset from hill near the Onizuka Visitor Center

Love this shot of my kids and me on Mauna Kea

Me, at sunset on Mauna Kea

Nightly Star-Gazing Program

Temperatures dropped from the 50’sF to the mid- 40’sF and the breeze picked up after dark, as well.  There is a nightly star-gazing program hosted by volunteers who man telescopes on the patio of the Onizuka Visitor Center.  We got great looks at the moon and a crash course in constellation location and identification.  It is a very informative and entertaining presentation, although it is helpful if you are somewhat familiar with constellations to begin with.

It should be noted that the breeze naturally accelerates after sunset, so dress accordingly as you will definitely feel the wind-chill affect!  There isn’t a lot of refreshments available to keep you warm…i.e. no coffee!  They do have a pot of hot water and will sell you some instant hot cocoa mix for a dollar inside.  It helps raise funds to keep this operation going, not to mention give you something warm in your belly!

If you plan on visiting and seeing Mauna Kea up-close, allow for a stop at the Onizuka Visitors Center and it is always a good idea to get the latest weather update and check on road conditions.  Simply call, (808) 935-6268 for a recorded message on current conditions.

For more information on Mauna Kea, here are a few books to consider:

Ulalena

If you’re spending time on Maui and still have some energy left in you after a day full of sight-seeing, snorkeling, and shopping, you may want to plan an evening attending Maui’s premiere theatrical performance held at the Maui Theatre in Lahaina, called Ulalena.  For over 10-years, this first-class stage production has received rave reviews from everyone who has seen it.  This is not your typical luau dinner show, but a full blown, professional theatrical show that would hold its own in Vegas or Broadway!  But, this uniquely Hawaiian live performance can only be seen at the 680-seat Maui Theatre.

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Reviews

• “Voted ‘Best Way to Learn About Maui’” –Maui Magazine
• “It truly represents our oral history, which totally will entrance the viewer with
  the beauty of our past.” –Maui News Opinion, submitted by Hawaiian Cultural
  Advisor Charles Kauluwehi Maxwell Sr.
• “‘Ulalena, a show about Hawaiian mythology and history, proves there’s a life
  beyond the luau.” –Travel+Leisure Magazine
• “I go out of my way to not call ‘Ulalena (at Maui Theatre) a show. It’s theater.
  It’s art. It’s wonderful. ‘Ulalena is one of the most brilliant pieces of theater
  I’ve seen in Hawai‘i in more than 40 years.”
  –Honolulu Star Bulletin Columnist Dave Donnelly
• “There’s nothing like it in Hawai‘i.”- Frommer’s, Maui Edition
• “…we recommend seeing the ‘Ulalena show, a total departure from the often mindless
  “Hawaiian” productions aimed at tourists.” –The Boston Globe
• “…the buzz of the millennium and a yardstick by which future productions are
  measured.” –Honolulu Advertiser Entertainment Columnist Wayne Harada
• “…an evocative experience that often leaves the audience speechless. It is
  interactive, with dancers coming down the aisles, drummers and musicians in
  surprising corners, and mind-boggling stage and lighting effects that draw
  the audience in.” –Frommer’s
• “…’Ulalena has been bringing down the house.”
  –Conde Nast Traveler
• “Awarded ‘Best Show’ & ‘Best Attraction’”
  –Hawaii Visitors & Convention Bureau

Tickets for Ulalena are $59.99, $69.99 and $79.99.  The $79.99 VIP is for seating in the first 7-rows center or first 5-rows side wings and includes a 20-minute behind the scenes session with the cast.  Children 6-12 are $30 less per ticket.  https://www.mauitheatre.com/_

Given the theatre’s 8-channel, 20-speaker, state-of-the-art surround sound system, you may want to pass on the standard seats and spend the extra $10-20.  Speaking of sound systems, the Maui Theatre was designed specifically with this show in mind.  Special lighting and stage hydraulics add to the special efforts that went into giving audiences a great experience.

Performances of Ulalena are held Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and  Friday, starting at 5:00 pm.

While Mauna Kea tends to get all the headlines and notoriety as the tallest and most observatory riddled mountain in Hawaii (and the world), its sister peak across the valley should not be overlooked.  Mauna Loa is a scant 117′ shorter, but because of its long, gently sloping sides, is deceptive in its appearance.

Mauna Loa

And, while Mauna Kea sports more observatories than any single location in the world, Mauna Loa hosts only two.  A large portion of Mauna Loa is included within the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, which maintains two cabins available for use by hikers for up to 3-days.  Its on a first-come, first-served basis and you must pick up your free permits from the Park Headquarters no earlier than the day before.

A trail-head begins at the Mauna Loa Lookout on the southern flanks of the mountain at the 6,662′ point, less than 20 miles from the Park Headquarters.  From there, its a 7.5 mile hike to reach the Pu’u’ula’ula (Red Hill) Cabin at the 10,035′ mark.  It may not sound very far, but you should allow 7-8 hours to reach it.  Its a good place to spend the night acclimating yourself to the elevation and thereby lowering your risk of suffering from Accute Mountain Sickness, aka altitude sickness.

The second leg of the hike takes you 9.5 miles away to the aptly named, Mauna Loa Cabin.  You will have climbed 3215′ in elevation over that nine-and-a-half-mile and probably taken upwards of 11-hours doing so.  Remember, its a fairly challenging incline, add to that the fact you’re doing it at an elevation of 2 miles up while carrying your camping gear and food, and you can see why you won’t be setting any land speed records.

And, while the hike back should be easier since its all down-hill, it won’t be much faster as the elevation and loose footing on the lava rocks will not allow you to safely travel much faster.  Take your time and arrive back safely.  As you can see, if you’re going to make this outing, you should allow a minimum of 4-days/3-nights.  It is not for the faint of heart or for those not in good physical condition.

Here is a pdf formatted map of the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.

Alternatively, for those not quite up to a multi-day hiking/camping adventure, you could drive around to the other side of Mauna Loa along the Saddle Road that takes you up between Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea.  The Mauna Loa Observatory Road allows you to reach the 11,150′ mark in relative comfort and in just a few hours from either Kailua-Kona or Hilo.

You can then make the much shorter hike from the observatory to the Mauna Loa Cabin, however, you may want to allow additional time en-route to allow your body to adjust to the altitude rather than trying to go from sea-level to 13,000′ in a few short hours.   Remember, Accute Mountain Sickness, is a very real risk and can have serious consequences if ignored.

Here is a hiker’s journal from 2006 describing one hiker’s experiences along this alternative trek.  Included in his journal are some very nice pics of what you can expect to see.

A few precautionary notes should be made here.  First of all, even if you’re thinking of taking this on in the middle of summer, dress warm.  Hypothermia is a very real threat!  Temperatures on the top of Mauna Loa regularly dip into the 30’s and 40’sF, even during the summer.  During the winter, it is not unreasonable to expect snow.  Add to that the very real possibility of winds in the 25+ mph range and you should start to get the picture.

Take as much water as you can carry, wear protective boots…not just for the support, but also to protect you from the jagged edges of a’a lava rocks that abound.  Rain gear is also a must have…nothing worse than cold AND wet!

Effective December 9, 2013, the new American Airlines becomes the largest airline in the United States.

Even after challenges from the government and consumer groups fearing reduced competition will lead to higher prices, American Airlines Group emerged from bankruptcy today, months after announcing the intention of merging American Airlines and US Airways.  Why the concern?  With the creation of this newer, larger, and hopefully stronger airline, four airlines will control over 80% of the domestic market.

This is just the latest of several airline mergers as they continue to maneuver to maintain profitability and competitiveness since the industry was deregulated decades ago.  Continental and Northwest Airlines being among the more notable airlines having disappeared in recent years.

Affect on Mainland-Hawaii Airfares should be negligible

US Airways has never served the Hawaii-Mainland routes, so this merger should have no effect on seat availability and pricing of tickets.  However, as route consolidation and the two airlines get fully integrated, it may have an impact in some markets on the mainland.  As a matter of fact, many of those in Hawaii may not be familiar with US Airways since they are strongest along the eastern seaboard.

The question now is, how smoothly they can pull of this merger.  If you recall, the merger between United and Continental Airlines back on October 1, 2011, took the better part of a year before they got their two separate systems integrated.

Hopefully, this latest merger will bring some stability to the airline industry.  Congratulations and best wishes to the new American Airlines!

In 2010, during one of the cold and snowy stretches that hit the US, 49 out of 50 states had snow on the ground…Hawaii was the exception.  During the winter of 2009-10, Hawaii had virtually no snow to speak of.   With yet another cold and snowy winter on hand, on January 11/12, once again 49 out of 50 states had snow on the ground…Florida was the exception.

I recently saw a question on Yahoo Answers that asked about where one should go to see snow.  Although the asker was open to taking a trip to the mainland to do so, its really not necessary.

With Haleakala on Maui at 10,023′ above sea level, Mauna Loa at 13,679′ and Mauna Kea standing at 13,796′, both on the Big Island;  all three are subject to getting snow during the winter months.  This is especially true in January and February.

As a matter of fact, most years Mauna Kea receives enough snow that there is a ski club that takes advantage of the snowfall.  I don’t mean to imply its ever going to challenge Aspen as a ski destination since Mauna Kea probably only averages about a foot and a half of snow a year, but they do ski there.

Hawaii had snow on Haleakala, Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea on January 11-12, 2011.  In fact, the weather service issued a winter storm warning for all three areas that day.  As you might imagine, Hawaii doesn’t actually spend a lot of money buying snow removal equipment, so they close the roads down until the snow melts off the roads, which usually only takes a day or two.

However, what that also means is, if you are planning on catching sunrise on Haleakala or visiting the summit of Mauna Kea to observe sunset or stopping at the Onizuka Visitors Center for their nightly star-gazing program during the winter months, you should check the weather reports and make sure the roads are open.

Snow on Mauna Loa as seen from the road to South Point, Big Island.

Remember when Hawaiian and Aloha Airlines were the Inter-Island Choices?

Time was that the Hawaiian islands were served by two very competitive airlines; Aloha And Hawaiian Airlines.  A couple of decades ago, Aloha Airlines went out of business, with just Aloha Cargo left to carry the moniker.  In the intervening years, Go Airlines and Island Air have given Hawaiian Airlines a little competition, but Hawaiian Airlines remains the primary inter-island carrier to date.

Fast forward to the next decade and the air carrier picture could look much different.  With the recent purchase of Go Airlines by Lanai’s Larry Ellison, who already owns Island Air, there may be a re-awakening of inter-island competition.  With the addition of new aircraft in the form of fuel-efficient ATR-72’s and new leadership, Island Air could roll out some much needed relief in inter-island airfares.

Hawaiian Airlines recently added ATR-42’s to use in servicing Lanai and Molokai, Island Air’s primary routes.  Remember, Ellison originally purchased Island Air in order to improve air service to his resort island of Lanai.

Will Alaska Air and Southwest Airlines fly Inter-Island?

And, rumors continue about Southwest Airlines interest in the inter-island market since they are already preparing to add Hawaii to its routes.  There has also been talk of Alaska Airlines looking into inter-island flights in addition to the competition they already give Hawaiian Airlines into Hawaii from the west coast.

However all of this shakes out, the real winner at the end of all this jockeying for the inter-island market may just be the consumer, especially island residents who travel between islands for business and pleasure.  Of course, it could also help to boost outer-island tourist numbers as well.  It could mean all the difference in a one-island visit or a multi-island experience to budget conscious travelers.

Care to share your thoughts and insights on this inter-island question?

Luau…a Hawaiian-style buffet!

One of the favorite activities for locals and visitors alike is eating and nothing defines Hawaiian food more than a luau!

Hawaii is famous for its “luaus”, a Hawaiian style buffet of foods featuring an imu(pit)-cooked pig.  This “kalua pig” is made by first digging a hole in the ground, approximately 6-7′ across and about 3′ deep.  This pit is then lined with smooth lava rocks and as much firewood as it will hold.

The idea is for the fire to heat up the rocks, which will provide most of the heat to cook the pig.  Chicken wire is most commonly used to wrap the pig in and to hold it together after it is cooked.  The pig is cleaned and liberally salted with Hawaiian salt.  The open cavity and slits which are cut at each leg joint have hot rocks stuck into them.

Directly on top of the coals are placed banana stumps, which have been split down the middle, and lots and lots of ti-leaves.  Both of these provide added moisture, as well as adding a smokey smell to the cooked pork.  The pig is placed on top of this layer of stumps and leaves, covered by more ti-leaves, then its all covered with wet burlap bags to help keep the smoke in and the dirt out.  More recently, plastic tarps have been used, as burlap bags get harder and harder to obtain.  Yes, the final step is to bury the whole pile with dirt until there is no more steam escaping from this earthen oven.

Now, all that’s left is the waiting…usually about 8 to 10-hours, depending on the size of the pig.  Once its determined to be cooked, the process is reversed and the pig lifted using the chicken wire cradle to transport it to where ever the final breaking up and serving will be done.  (The best pieces are the crispy bits of skin that are stuck to the chicken wire!)

That’s the traditional kalua pig.  Today, most of the kalua pig served at restaurants throughout the state are prepared in commercial sized ovens.   Still flavored with Hawaiian salt and lots of ti-leaves for that smoky flavor expected from kalua pig.

If you can get your hands on ti-leaves, you can make your own oven kalua pig…see the recipe section for the recipe.

Of course, the kalua pig is just the main course served at a luau.  You will typically also get chicken long-rice (not sure just how this Chinese dish came to be a staple at a Hawaiian luau, but…), fried chicken (always a good fall back for picky eaters), rice, macaroni salad (of course), poi, lomi-salmon or ahi, and the usual salad spread.

Dessert is often headlined with haupia (a coconut pudding) and a variety of cakes.  Drinks are often included with the luau, although, if you go to the luau at the Polynesian Cultural Center, these will be non-alcoholic drinks, as the PCC is both sponsored and operated by the Mormon Church of Hawaii.

Oahu Favorite Luaus

Probably the best luau and accompanying show on Oahu is the one held at the Polynesian Cultural Center.  The next best, especially for those desiring alcoholic beverages and/or an audience participation type show, would be a toss up between Germaine’s and Paradise Cove, both located near the Ko Olina Resort on the west shores of Oahu.